Friday, 21 February 2020

128 oscillators in a Max For Live plug-in...

Every so often, I produce a sound generator. When I was a kid it was neon relaxation oscillators or cascaded unijunction oscillators, but these days they tend to be implemented in Max For Live. Since BankOSC, I've been exploring some ideas to see if I could come up with another simple but powerful user interface to Max's 'ioscbank~' object, and I'm going to share the result with you now.

INSTframeOSCmr


INSTframeOSCmr builds on INSTbankOSC, but quadruples the number of oscillators, has two independent sound generating channels, and as with many of my generators, there is is a ring modulator in the output stage. There are now 64 oscillators in the oscillator banks, and a simpler user interface -BankOSC was cool, but it wasn't straight-forward. FrameOSC has two channels (A and B), each of which contains two 'Frames'. The frames contain frequency and amplitude lists for the 64 oscillators, and you can control the rate at which the frames are loaded into the oscillator banks - as well as how long it takes for the oscillators to adapt to the new parameter lists. But unlike BankOSC, where the frequency lists were fixed to MIDI notes, the frequency range in FrameOSC can be varied - so you can have each of the pairs of 64 oscillators playing frequencies over a range of a few hertz, to a few thousand hertz, and you can tune all the oscillators with an offset rotary control. This means that you can make a lot of very rich, thick, swarmy textural sounds which can nicely cover the spectrum from ethereal to scary.

Oh, and the oscillators are in stereo, so there's actually 256 oscillators in total...

The two numbers in orange between the frequency and amplitude grids are NOT related to the horizontal indexing of the 64 oscillators - this space was just a convenient place to put the 'Span' limits of the vertical frequency axis (anywhere else gets in the way of other UI elements). The left number is the lowest frequency set by the frequency grid and the 'Span' rotary control. The right hand number is the highest frequency set by the frequency grid and the 'Span' vertical control. It all makes sense once you are used to the way the grids and the span control work!

When you first see FrameOSC, you will notice the two pairs of frames: channels A and B. Each pair of fames has an underlying left-to-right scrolling cursor that shows the position of the LFO as it scans across the frames. The rate of the LFO is controlled by the 'Rate' rotary control, and the border of the left frame of the A pair will light up in white as the cursor scans across from left to right. When it gets to the right hand edge of the left frame, then the right frame will get a white border and the cursor will then scan across that. When the cursor reaches the right hand edge then it jumps back to the left and repeats. So, at a glance, you can see which frame is current active, which one will be active next, and how long it is going to be before the cursor reaches the edge and triggers the change. Remember that the cursor scanning across from left to right is just a metaphor for the LFO timing - it does not mean that the oscillators at that position are affected by the cursor.


When the border jumps from one frame to another, the frequency and amplitude parameter lists are loaded into the oscillators. The 'Smooth' rotary control sets how long it takes for the parameter changes to happen. The range is from more or less immediately, through to multiple tens of seconds. If you set the LFO rate to be fast, and have a long smooth time, then you won't hear much happening, because the oscillators can't track the changes, but if you reduce the smooth time, then you will gradually hear the changes happening with more and more effect, until at very short smooth times, the oscillators will change from one set of parameters to another very quickly. Fo slower LFO rates, then the smooth control has much the same effect - if it is set too long then the changes occur very slowly (or maybe never reach the limits, whilst faster smooth times will give more abrupt changes.

The frames contain editable lists of frequency and amplitude for the 64 oscillators - you just click and drag in the rectangles. For the Frequency list, vertical is frequency, which for the amplitude grid, vertical is amplitude. Left to Right is the 64 oscillators. There are two rotary controls in each frame: 'Span' adjusts the frequency span of the frequency list, whilst 'Tune' adjusts the pitch up and down - just an offset control, really. At the far right hand side, there are volume controls for the A an B pairs of frames, plus a third volume control for the ring modulator (RM).


To encourage experimentation, and to avoid too much of a 'preset' mind-set, I have deliberately not included memories in INSTframeOCmr - think of it as being like a modular synthesizer that forces you to unlearn any reliance you may have developed for the instant recall of sounds. I await the first modded versions with memories added!

Notes

If you don't have any parameters set in the frequency and amplitude grids, then you aren't going to get very interesting output sounds. Zero Hertz at zero amplitude is not very useful. 

The LFO isn't quite what you might expect - it actually runs 16 times faster than the actual rate of crossing the frames, but this is so that it can drive the cursor. There is also a large amount of latency in the way it responds to slow rate settings - you may find that it appears to have stopped. You can press the 'Reset' button to reset the LFO cycle if this happens.

Ring modulators accentuate the difference between two sounds, so if you set very similar sounds in the A and B pairs of frames, then the RM output may not be interesting.

Remember that left to right is selecting oscillators in the grids, whilst vertical is frequency or amplitude. These are not waveforms or spectra.

If you like a set of parameters, use the 'Save' icon in the top right hand corner of the device in Ableton Live to save it as a 'preset', so that you can get it back later on!

INSTframeOSCmr does not respond to MIDI notes. It produces an output all the time, and this is not pitchable or triggerable using a keyboard. The frequencies are not on a scale, or a temperament - they are just raw frequencies.

Adding echo, delay or reverb after INSTframeOSCmr will thicken the output even more.

Remember that the cursor scanning across from left to right is just a metaphor for the LFO timing - it does not mean that the oscillators at that position are affected by the cursor. I'm repeating this because this was the second thing that people said in the beta testing.

Yes, you can make it sound like Louis and Bebe Barron's soundtrack to the movie: 'Forbidden Planet'.  (This is the first thing that people said in the beta testing.) But you can do lots more than that. (Oh, and the reason is sounds like 'Forbidden Planet' is because recording lots of manually tuned oscillators tends to produce a distinctive sound...) And yes, that is a young Frank Drebin played by Leslie Neilsen, or is it the other way round, or something else entirely?

As always, INSTframeOSCmr is free!

Updated version


Version 0.2 is now available. I have added extra guides to how the frequency grids work, plus the new 'Detune' rotary control, and a 'Max For Live' 'What is happening inside the patch' detail for the 'Vexpr' object in a new blog post.

Getting INSTframeOSCmr

You can get INSTframeOSCmr here:

     https://maxforlive.com/library/device/6012/instframeoscmr

Here are the instructions for what to do with the .amxd file that you download from MaxforLive.com:

     https://synthesizerwriter.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/where-do-i-put-downloaded-amxd.html

(In Live 10, you can also just double-click on the .amxd file, but this puts the device in the same folder as all of the factory devices...)

Oh, yes, and sometimes last-minute fixes do get added, which is why sometimes a blog post is behind the version number of MaxForLive.com...

Modular Equivalents

In terms of basic modular equivalents, then INSTframeOSCmr would require two LFOs, and 256 VCOs, a lot of stored parameters (blocks of 16?) to do the frame loads, a mixer and a Ring Modulator, giving a total of well over 260 ME, which is the biggest count so far, I think. You might want to use some specialist additive oscillators instead of brute-force VCOs!

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Tuesday, 18 February 2020

How to do a screen recording of Ableton Live (and other DAWs)

Progress is a strange thing. Sometimes you think you have moved forwards, but actually you have taken a step backwards. After using a 12-year old MacBook Pro as my Ableton Live and Max workhorse, I moved to a slightly more modern MacBook Pro that has USB C sockets, and only has a headphone output. I didn't think any more about the significance of that single audio output until I needed to do a screen recording of Ableton Live (which will be the subject of another blog post...).


On my 2008 MacBook Pro all I did was use a Y-shaped headphone sharing widget (from the days when two people could often be seen sharing a pair of earphones - each with one earphone) and connect a 3.5mm stereo jack (grey, on the left) into the headphone output and the line input. The headphone sharing widget was also connected to my amp so that you could hear the audio on the monitor speakers. This little bit of hardware magic allowed me to have Ableton Live running, start up QuickTime Player and select 'New Screen Recording...' and capture a video of the screen and the audio output of Ableton Live (or Max, or any other audio-emitting application... Quick, easy and simple - and all hardware!


But on my much newer MacBook Pro (with USB C sockets!) there wasn't any line input socket - just a headphone output. Okay, so all I needed to do was use my audio interface... Which is where things became slower, harder and more complex. Ah, the joys of unfamiliarity!


I have a Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 2nd Generation (the nearest current equivalent is the 2i2 3rd Generation), and it has served me very well - it just works. A simplified front panel is shown above, with functions shown underneath for reference. Most simple audio interfaces have similar layouts and functions. So I looked in the User Guide for 'Screen Recording' and didn't find anything. Searching on the Focusrite web-site didn't locate any relevant tutorial either, although there was a lot of help there - just not what I needed at this moment. So I Googled it, and, as usual, I found lots of YouTube videos and web-pages that were just nothing more than click-bait, suggesting that they would show me what to do, but not actually really delivering anything other than adverts that they could monetise. It may well be that amongst all of the eager 'Click me!' results there was some useful information on screen recording, but I didn't find it. It was at this point that I realised that I was going about it all wrong, and you are reading the result. I may even do a YouTube video that isn't just click-bait and contains actual real information at some stage...

Screen Recording should be easy


It seems like it should be easy. You just record what is happening on your computer's screen and the audio that it is producing. Unfortunately, recording the digital audio output of applications running on computers is not as straight-forward as you might hope. The Operating System audio input and output control panels only show devices that are connected to the external interfaces of the computer, not what is happening inside the computer. So you only see the built-in 'internal' microphone and speaker, and any audio interfaces - in this case, a Scarlett 2i4 connected via USB. Applications like DAWs or Screen Recorders do not appear in the audio control panels. If you delve deeper using the 'Audio MIDI Setup' utility program (in the 'Utilities' folder) then that gives more detail of the built-in microphone and speaker, plus audio interfaces connected to the computer via other interfaces (USB in this case, but older computers might have FireWire...), but nothing 'internal' at the application level is shown. There's no 'patch bay' or 'routing matrix' where you can set the connections between applications that have audio inputs and outputs.

There are a number of third party utilities that allow you to route digital audio 'internally' (inside the computer) from one application to another, and I have spent quite a lot of time trying to use them. It seems that a reliable and easy-to-use digital audio routing utility is not what I downloaded, several times, with several different operating systems, versions, fixes, forum visits, and lots of promises that each of them really was the solution. It is almost as if routing and making perfect digital copies of audio is deliberately made difficult... Hmmm...

Now I know that there are lots of these utilities out there, and I know that there are lots of YouTube videos, forum posts and tutorials on how to use them, but I just didn't manage to find one that worked. Maybe this is the Interweb that we deserve? Anyway, I went back to first principles.

DAWs and Audio Interfaces


An audio interface is a handy combination of a few different utility functions all put together into one box. There are audio inputs, which can amplify microphones or guitars, as well as accept line inputs from synthesisers, drum machines, etc., and digitise and send that audio over a USB cable to a DAW running on the computer, where it can be recorded. There are audio outputs, so that the digital audio produced by the DAW can be sent over a USB cable to the audio interface, where it is converted back into analogue audio, and listened to on speakers or headphones. There's also monitor switching which lets you listen to the inputs before they are digitised, or the outputs of the DAW, or even mix the two. And there's all sorts of things borrowed from mixing desks: pads, phantom power, selection switches etc. But the basic functionality is: sockets for audio input to the DAW, and sockets for audio output from the DAW.


On my Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 audio interface, there are 2 input sockets, and 4 output sockets. Actually the inputs can be balanced (on XLR) on unbalanced (on quarter inch jacks), and there are two balanced outputs on quarter inch stereo jacks and four unbalanced outputs on RCA/Phono sockets, but that's just detail. As advertisers say: there are other audio interfaces, with different numbers of inputs and outputs.

I need diagrams - my mind thinks in pictures. The user guide for the Scarlett has words, and a few pictures - but nothing like the diagram above. Audio (microphone, guitar, synth, etc.) comes from the left hand side, gets converted to digital, goes through the USB cable and appears at the input of the DAW. Audio from the DAW goes through the USB cable, is converted back to analogue audio, and is then connected to speakers or headphones so it can be heard. Now you know too.

To configure an audio interface so that it replaces the default internal microphone and speakers, you need to set some preferences. There are several ways to do this, so I will cover them all - you will find that changes in one may well affect others. System Preferences (the gear icon) is the first place to visit. The Audio control panel has buttons for Input and Output:


Notice that the sound input shows only the internal microphone and the Scarlett 2i4 audio interface. I'm running Ableton Live and the Screen Recorder (QuickTime Player) on the computer at this point, and they do not appear in the list of sound inputs (they both have audio inputs and outputs!), so this reinforces the 'You can only control audio inputs and outputs that go outside the computer' viewpoint of the Operating System. On my old previous MacBook Pro then the input control panel had that very useful line input as well, and there was also a hidden digital optical output interface (S/PDIF / TOSLINK) hidden inside the 3.5mm output jack - a Mini-TOSLINK connector (different to the TOSLINK connector that you might find on a CD player's rear panel).


Inside Apple's 'Audio MIDI Setup' utility application, then you get more detail and more control:


Notice that the System Preferences Audio control panel calls the audio devices the 'internal microphone' and 'internal speakers', whereas in the Audio MIDI Setup utility they are the 'built-in microphone' and 'built-in output'. I would prefer it if there was a little more consistency in the naming conventions...


Inside a DAW, then there are much the same options, but presented in the UI style of the DAW. So, for Ableton Live you go to the Preferences control panel and select the 'Audio' tab:


The audio input selection has the Scarlett audio interface and the built-in microphone as the available audio input devices. (Note that the terminology used by Ableton reflects the Audio MIDI Setup naming convention...)


The audio output selection has the Scarlet audio interface and the built-in output as the available audio output devices, again using the Audio MIDI setup naming convention.


Most of the time, you will just confirm that the audio interface is chosen...

Screen Recording


Screen recording is very different to just using an audio interface with a DAW to record and playback audio. Screen recording puts two applications in that 'Computer' box in the middle of the diagram: the DAW and the Screen Recorder. I use Ableton Live as my DAW of choice for most purposes, but you can use your own DAW of preference. I use QuickTime Player (which can also record!) as the screen recorder because it came free with the computer, but you can use your own choice if you prefer. Note that although I did this on a Mac, the way that audio interfaces work is much the same on Macs and PCs, and other than you might require a driver to be installed on a PC, and you will need a screen recorder other than QuickTime Player, then you should be able to do screen recording as I describe below on a PC as well.

In all the diagrams that follow, I only show audio connections (both analogue and digital audio, as well as digital audio carried over a USB connection). The video connection between the screen of the computer (displaying the DAW!) and the Screen Recorder is not shown - but you know it is there really! Adding it to the diagrams just makes them way too complex!


The digital audio output of the DAW needs to be sent to the input of the Screen Recorder (QuickTime Player, using 'New Screen Recording...') and it would be nice if it also went to the audio interface over the USB cable so that it can be heard. This is where those utility applications come in - they allow you to route the digital audio output of the DAW to the Screen Recorder and to the audio interface. If you try to do this with some Screen Recorders then they just show you the audio inputs and outputs that are available externally to the computer - which in this case would be the Scarlett 2i4 audio interface. So the 'internal' 'DAW output' digital audio may not appear on the list of audio sources for the Screen Recorder.


Here's the Screen Recording window that QuickTime Player pops up when you select 'New screen Recording...' from the File menu. The slider at the bottom is the audio output volume control, and notice that it does not allow you to choose which audio device it sends audio to - it uses the device set in one of the previous control panels. But remember that this control is only used when QuickTime Player is playing a video file that you have recorded - note that there is no output from the Screen Recorder inside the 'Computer' box on the diagram that shows how things are connected together when a screen recording is happening:


The red spot button in the middle is the 'Record' button, and the little down arrow gives a drop-down menu that allows you to select the audio input source:


As with all of the previous control panels, this one is set to the Scarlett audio interface over USB - which, as you can see from the diagram of the inside of the 'Computer' box, is completely wrong. The input of the Screen Recorder should be the audio output of the DAW! (Which isn't an option...) The utility routing applications that I mentioned would be used here to do the internal routing of the digital audio instead of this selector. I'm not going to show any of the utility routing applications here to keep things simple.

Of course, you might want to do more than just hear the output of the DAW in the screen recording. A spoken commentary is a popular way of explaining what is happening, and so the audio inputs of the audio interface can be used to send that microphone output to the screen recorder, where it can be mixed with the output of the DAW. One way to do this might be like this:


The required utility application that routes the audio, mixes and sends the DAW output is now more complex, and a lot of these utility functions could probably be done by the Screen Recorder - although QuickTime Player only allows you to choose one audio input to record at once, so you would need to have an external mixer and mix the microphone output with the DAW input, and then send that back to the Screen Recorder. It turns out that this is a much simpler way to achieve the same result as the complex utility routing application:


In this configuration, an external mixer is used to mix together the audio output of the DAW with the commentary from the microphone. Levels and panning can be adjusted by the mixer, and the setup of the DAW and Screen Recorder software is easy and requires no complex utility application - the DAW output is sent to the audio interface, as usual, whilst the Screen Recorder just records the output of the mixer via the audio interface. The DAW output can be monitored by the audio interface, which may mean that you need to select the source of the monitoring - on my Scarlett 2i4, there's a rotary control that lets you choose between monitoring the inputs or the outputs. I set it to monitor the outputs so that I hear the DAW audio, and not the microphone. (I hate hearing my own voice)

In terms of software configuration, the DAW output is sent to the audio interface (Scarlett 2i4 in my case: this is set in Ableton Live Preferences), whilst the Screen Recorder input is set to be from the audio interface (the Scarlett 2i4 in my case: this is set in QuickTime Player (the little drop-down menu next to the red record button):


So by not using a complex routing utility application to interconnect audio applications inside the computer, we have a simple solution that we can control using native control panels.


Here's a diagram showing how the mixer connects everything together. The microphone is probably going to be panned in the centre, and is on channel 1 of this example mixer. Channels 3 and 4 are used for the DAW left and right outputs (from the unbalanced outputs of the audio interface). The left and right outputs of the mixer go to the inputs of the audio interface.

The downside of this approach is that the Screen Recorder is not getting the direct digital output of the DAW - instead it gets the DAW audio converted to analogue audio, then mixed with the microphone, and then redigitised. So the audio will not have been digital from beginning to end, but the gain in simplicity is considerable.

Note that the mixer on the input of the audio interface can be very simple - it could even be passive .(A microphone that requires phantom power is going to need either a mixer that can provide the power, or one of those phantom power boxes if you want to use a passive mixer)


Here's a screen recording about to happen. Ableton Live is running (literally) and the QuickTime Player is waiting for the red 'Record' button to be pressed to start the screen recording (which records the video of the screen and the audio - since everything so far has only talked about the audio, then it seems like a good point to mention that the whole point of this type of screen recording is to capture the video and the audio outputs of the DAW!)

A quick tip: When you have the DAW full-screen, then the screen recorder window (QuickTime Player in this case) is going to be covered up. To get it back on top, you just go to the Dock at the bottom of the screen and click on the QuickTime Player icon. (There's an equivalent way to do this in Windows...)

One thing that does need to be mentioned is that the Screen Recorder output should not be connected to the audio interface - if you do this, then a feedback loop can sometimes be created. So when making a screen recording in QuickTime Player, the output slider is always left at zero:


There is a way to simplify things even more, and this is when no microphone commentary is used. Taking the original 'headphone sharing; approach, this can be implemented by using two cables to connect the output of the audio interface to the input - very much like the mixer setup above.


The DAW and Screen Recorder have been moved around to make the diagram simpler, and if we continue with the simplification, by splitting the computer and the audio interface into two separate parts, then we get this extreme clarification:


The digital output from the DAW goes through the USB cable to the audio interface, where it is converted to analogue audio, then this is input into the audio interface input section, is digitised, goes along the USB cable, and ends up being recorded by the Screen Recorder. So only two quarter inch Jack to RCA/Phono cables are required:


This shows the back of my 2i4 audio interface, but the two outputs on the rear panel are just the two main unbalanced outputs, and so any 2in, 2 out audio interface will have these outputs.


This really is the headphone adapter all over again, but translated so that it works with the audio interface - and the monitor function of the audio interface allows the output of the DAW to be heard on speakers or headphones by monitoring the input.

Simpler still


If you don't need stereo, then you could have only one analogue cable from the output to the input of the audio interface, and use the other input for the microphone! This will give you DAW audio in one channel, and the microphone in the other channel. Extreme and minimalistic - and useful in emergencies.

Later...

My mind just won't let go of some things, and this was one of those. It turns out that the 3rd generation Scarlett interfaces with more input sources (and less front panel controls you control them from your computer over the USB cable) - the 4i4, 8i6 and upwards in inputs and outputs, have anew feature called 'Loopback' which allows you to get at the internal audio signals that are needed to do screen recording. I'm going to acquire one of these interfaces at some stage (this isn't YouTube, where people who make videos seem to get loads of gear - I buy everything you see here myself!) and see if this makes screen recording easier. My suspicion is that there will need to be quite a lot of changes to the audio routing so that the DAW is recorded by QuickTime in Screen Recorder mode (or whatever other recorder you use.) Anyway, watch this space.

One other thing that I'm now aware of is that you can make a screen recording directly in macOS Mojave with just a keyboard shortcut: Shift+Command+5 (a bit like Shift+Command+3 which takes a picture of the screen...) But audio doesn't seem to be selectable, so I need to look a bit deeper. As always, watch this blog...

Links


I mentioned my Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 2nd Generation audio interface because that is what I used for these experiments - but the nearest current equivalent is the 2i2 3rd Generation which is a 2 in, 2 out audio interface that will work fine for screen recording. It also only has two unbalanced outputs, so it is easier to get the connections correct! Full marks to Focusrite for making an audio interface that works perfectly for an unusual use case!

There are many mixers that can do the 'simple' mixer role - even a passive mixer. Here are some to research further:

Maker Hart Loop Mixer

Behringer MX400

Bastl Dude (monophonic...)

Rakit Rackimix 5 Channel Mixer



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Thursday, 30 January 2020

MIDI Clock Sync Labels

One of the things that was lurking at the back of my mind whilst I was looking at connecting the Novation Circuit to the Novation Circuit Mono Station was some way of highlighting the way that the 3.5mm TRS sockets are wired up. I have other equipment that also uses 3.5mm TRS-to-MIDI adapters, and not all of them are the same - there are two different ways of connecting that little socket in common usage (and more if you try hard, but please just don't!).

Which got me thinking - and here's the result:



Yep, two different sticky vinyl labels that can be stuck to the underside of equipment, or stuck to a luggage tag and attached to the piece of equipment (now that's an interesting tip). Of course, you will need to check the way that the sockets are wired up - I couldn't find any way to make a sticky vinyl label that is that smart!

To save you some of the hassle of finding sticky paper (or better, vinyl), printing onto it and then cutting out the labels, I have used one of those on-line drop-ship companies to do most of that for you! Unfortunately, the die-cutting only cuts out part of the sticky vinyl labels, so you will need to do some work with a pair of scissors. Unlike most other things from this blog (but like everything on my store), I'm afraid that you have to buy these labels.

My store is here: https://teespring.com/en-GB/stores/synthesizerwriters-store

The store also has some 'statement' T-shirts, plus another die-cut vinyl sticker for labelling those sockets that are hidden away on the back of equipment. More cutting is required - sorry. I'm hoping that eventually the people who do the die-cut stickers will find a way of improving the cutting out...

In use...

Echoing back to a previous post, here are the labels in use on my 'non-RP54' Novation Circuit and Mono Station:



These are prototypes, and I will do some photos of the real things very soon.

Vinyl!

The vinyl labels arrived in the post from the USA today! The labels come in pairs, so there are two of each type on a single 5 inch x 5 inch (yep, imperial measurements) square. As I mentioned, the algorithm that does the cutting out is designed for a single vinyl sticker, not four separate ones, and so it tends to just fill in the centre section between the labels:


Here's me making a mess of cutting out a label with a pair of scissors!


And I'm now wondering what I can do with the bits of sticky-black white vinyl that are left over...


Update - June 2020

There was an error in my store! It should be fixed now. In the meantime, I have updated the design of the labels to use up the white space. You now get 12 labels in 3 sizes, including some tiny ones intended for the top of devices.



The 'tiny' labels mean that you can quickly connect up devices by matching green out to green in, or yellow out to yellow in, using the same TRS MIDI cable in each case. The screenshot above is the prototype of the revised version. 
---

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Monday, 20 January 2020

Phishing...

It was a strange email. Not from a name that I recognised. But it praised this blog, used an obscure link from a two year old blog post, and then used this as the hook to entice me into clicking on a link.

So I checked the actual email address, and yep, the name wasn't the same, plus it was a gmail address, so it was already starting to score quite highly on my 'possible phishing' suspicion counter. The link it so desperately wanted me to click on wasn't quite as ordinary as it appeared, and, like the name at the end of the email, was in a different font size. At this point the suspicion counter was too high and I deleted the email.

Not that long ago, phishing emails tended to routinely use urgency (only 24 hours left, do this now, urgent...) as one of the main ways that they tried to get you to click on the link payload. This email was different, because it was attempting to appeal to my vanity by praising this blog, in the hope that I would then click on the poisoned link payload. Normally this would probably raise it closer in my mind to what is called 'spear-phishing', which is where the email is targeted to an individual, but it didn't seem to be that specific. So my suspicion is that this was just what passes for ordinary phishing nowadays, and is consigned to the same virtual waste bin as all of those emails with names of people I know that say that I must open this link because I will love it, or I must see it, etc., and where again the name and the email address don't match...

I apologise for hijacking this blog post away from the usual music content, but the occasional reminder about

not clicking on links in emails that are even slightly suspicious

is always good, imho. It could save you from all sorts of bad stuff. Just delete suspicious emails.


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Sunday, 19 January 2020

Quick and easy MIDI clock sync between Novation Circuit and Circuit Mono Station

One interesting trend that I have watched recently is the loss of 5-pin DIN sockets for MIDI, and their replacement by one of two different ways of wiring up stereo 'TRS' 3.5mm jack sockets. I feel sorry for the IMA/MMA at having to choose one of the two ways as the approved standard going forward (Recommended Practice RP#54), much as I'm intrigued that MIDI 2.0 isn't as OSC-friendly as I expected, but the world can be a challenging and complicated place. Now smaller sockets do mean that hardware rear panels and front panels can be smaller, and in these Eurorack-ascendent days, this is probably a good thing.

As a side effect of smaller MIDI sockets, a lot of hardware that I have bought recently has come with adapters, and I have carefully labelled each adapter with the piece of equipment for which it is intended to be used, so that I avoid the troubleshooting nightmare of one or more 'Wrong MIDI adapters'. I expect that several stands in the quieter backwaters of this year's Winter NAMM exhibition featured testing gadgets that show which type of little MIDI socket you have, or which 'way' of adapter you have, because I can see a growing market for these things over the next few years.

Two pieces of my equipment that have little MIDI sockets are from Novation: the astonishingly versatile, feature-rich and often-firmware-updated Circuit, and the broad, deep and flexible Mono Station. Given their price to feature ratio, I find it very hard to criticise them in any way, and I use them a lot. Plus, their customer support has been helpful, responsive, informed and overall excellent to me, so that's a strong combination: brilliant products, and amazing customer support.

MIDI Clock Sync

The Novation Circuit and the Novation Mono Station are two very different pieces of equipment, despite looking like two pretty close siblings. Circuit is a 'jack-of-all-trades' two part (6 note poly, and 6 note articulation, spread across the two parts) synth and (drum or anything else) sample playback groovebox for knocking out ideas. Mono Station is a sophisticated 'everything major can be automated' synth-and-sequencer deeply-incestuous combination that has a maximum of two note 'polyphony' and one note articulation - something which is often abbreviated to 'paraphonic' in some quarters. Between them, you can make some interesting stuff with just two boxes.

Of course, one thing that you might want to do with two pieces of hardware is sync them together so that they use the same clock. Asynchronous beats have always struggled to get people onto dance floors, and so routing the MIDI Clock from one to the other is a pretty standard part of setting them up for 'synced' operation. To do this, you use one of them as the MIDI Clock source, and the other as the sink for the clock - the default configuration of both units means that if you connect the MIDI Out of one box to the MIDI In of the other box, then they should run in sync with the Master (the box with the MIDI Out) Run/Stop button controlling both boxes.

In order to do this, you need two adapters, plus a MIDI cable and a cable wrap to keep it tidy:


Now this is quite an assembly! And it got me thinking: it converts from little MIDI sockets to big MIDI sockets, just so that a conventional MIDI cable can connect the two boxes together. Why can't you just connect the two little sockets together?

It turns out that you can. Here's my experimental setup to see if it works:


All I did was borrow a stereo 3.5 TRS jack to jack cable from one of those headphone-sharing iPod/iPhone accessories and connected the MIDI Out of the Circuit to the MIDI In of the Mono Station. Pressing the Run/Stop' button on the Circuit then controlled start and stop for both boxes. Now in reality, this is a cheap and nasty cable and my advice would be to make a more robust cable than use part of a headphone sharing gadget, and there are a number of important things to bear in mind:

'Only connect a MIDI In to a Thru or an Out.' (The first rule of MIDI)

'Use cables with stereo TRS 3.5mm connectors - NOT Eurorack patch cables' 
(Yes, once plugged in they look the same!)

'Use shielded twisted pair cable! (as used for microphones)'

So the Frankenstein 'Two adapters plus MIDI cable plus cable tidy wrap' assembly can be replaced by a single cable. Simples, as the adverts say.


 So that you don't have to turn your computer monitor upside down, here's that 'rear-panel' view the other way up so that the socket legends are readable:


Here's a graphics-software-edited reminder that the connectors have to be STEREO...


A simple diagram with reminders about stereo plugs!

Use the right sort of cable!

As a quick experiment to check out that you don't need the two converters and the MIDI cable in between, then this test worked for me. But for professional use, then MIDI should be done properly with the right cables, not part of a cheap headphone gadget!

The MMA Recommended Practice #54 states that:

"Direct connection between two TRS-equipped devices using cables designed for use with audio equipment is not acceptable because the wires are not twisted pair and are typically individually shielded."

Now after quite a lot of searching, I am quite confident that you are not going to easily locate any off-the-shelf non-stereo, screened twisted pair cables terminated with decent quality 3.5mm TRS jacks. Which is why I am recommending that you make your own special-purpose cable. You will need two stereo TRS 3.5mm plugs, plus a short length of shielded twisted pair cable (as sold for microphone cables, NOT twin screened as you use for stereo interconnections) - and some skill at soldering. I will have a go and include a photo of my finished cable in an update to this post...

My thinking here is that if you have a distinctive cable with plugs that don't look like Eurorack patch cabling, then you will know that it is a special purpose 'Special cable for doing MIDI Clock Sync between two boxes with little MIDI sockets'. Hey, you could even add a label to the cable that reminds you!

You do all of this at your own risk, of course.

Do not do this with ANY other pieces of equipment until you have checked that they use the same 'way' of converting from little MIDI sockets to big MIDI sockets!

Enjoy the syncing, of course.

Making the cable...

When I recommended that the best course of action (in the absence of any suitable commercial cables) was to 'make your own' then I made some assumptions. In these days of easy online mail order of all sorts of electronic bits and pieces, it seemed obvious that procuring the necessary bits would be quick and easy. The reality was a little different. Metal-bodied 3.5mm TRS jacks with strain relief seem to be hard to locate, and the examples without strain relief are small and fiddly to wire up, particularly with the large diameter microphone cable that is required. Just about every plug I could find was either on very long delivery (shipped from China), or else was very expensive and designed for very thin cable. So it looks like a simple 'do it yourself' recommendation has turned into a 'hey, this is pretty tricky - can you show me it is possible?' exercise. Okay, here goes.


Here's what my nice postman delivered. A pair of very expensive metal 3.5mm TRTS Jack plugs (from a 'middle' supplier on Amazon, rather than waiting a month to get them sent in a container directly from China), plus some medium quality £2/metre screened twisted pair microphone cable (from a standard pro-audio supplier that you will have heard of...). Note that it is very easy to print 'Professional Low Noise Microphone Cable' onto just about any cable - so buying cheap cable with no provenance is not a good idea.

I have stripped the deliberately bright (part of the design specification, remember?) nicely flexible sheath to expose the insides - always check that the cable is what you ordered! In this case the twisting isn't as tight as I would like, but for a short distance it should not be too bad. If I was specifying this for a real cable, then I would be looking for a tighter twist...


Here's the jack plug opened up, and the cable prepped for length. Don't forget to put the cover onto the cable, then the transparent insulating sheath, before you do any soldering. Your local MakerSpace is probably a good starting point to contact if you aren't confident in your soldering...


The screen and the two data wires have now been cut to the right length and tinned with solder, ready for attaching to the plug. I tend to do the screen first, then the two data wires...



And here are the two ends of the cable. so that you get two different perspectives of my soldering. Soldering is easiest when you are young and have sharp eyesight... So what next? Replace the insulating sheath and the cover? Nope. This is where you get your multimeter and check for shorts between screen and wires, between wires, and continuity between the ends. Only when everything checks out should you move on.


Here the transparent insulating sheath has been pushed back over the soldering, and the metal cover is about to be screwed back on.


The finished ends. Always check continuity and check for shorts again when you have put the final covers on. You would be surprised what can go wrong if you are in a hurry to finish.


The finished cable. OK, so I can wire up a cable, not perfectly (I'm out of practice), and I would have preferred more strain relief (but there's no room in the plugs with cable this thick!), but this will suffice for now and is much better than the cheap and nasty stereo cable that I borrowed from that headphone sharing gadget.


This is the new cable in use. I have labelled the Circuit's MIDI Out and the Mono's MIDI In sockets with stickers from my online store ( My store is here: https://teespring.com/en-GB/stores/synthesizerwriters-store ), but there are other ways to do the same thing.




Finally, just a couple of close-ups to see the Circuit MIDI Out and the Mono Station MIDI In in more detail. Notice that the spacing of the 3.5mm jack sockets is quite tight in comparison with the diameter of the metal 3.5mm jack socket - if it was much wider then you would not be able to get three of them side by side (so don't buy overly-chunky plugs!).

Twisted pair?

In case you are wondering what all this 'stereo / individually screened' versus 'screened twisted pair' means, then here's a quick guide to what happens inside a cable, even when the plugs on the end look the same...


Let's start with what is happening inside a 'stereo' 3.5mm TRS cable - the sort of thing that you get between a tower computer and a woofer, or between a laptop or mobile phone and a multi-headphone sharing gadget. Each of the two wires carrying audio (T and R) has its own metal screen (the dotted lines), and the screens are connected to the 'Ground' (S). Having separate screens around each audio signal is deliberate - it keeps the two audio signals separate!


In contrast, a 3.5mm TRS cable intended for carrying MIDI is very different inside. The two wires that carry the MIDI data (T and R) are twisted together, and then that twisted 'pair' is put inside a single metal screen, which is again connected to 'Ground' (S). The twisting inside the screen has a big effect on the speed and reliability of transferring the MIDI data - the physical arrangement of the wires and screens really does matter!

Note that from the outside, the plugs on the ends of this cable look exactly the same. Also, unless the cable is actually made as two separate screened cables joined together in a figure-of-8 shape, then the cable probably looks exactly the same as well. (Lots of cables have an outer 'sheath' that hides what is going on inside with a 'round' exterior.

If we now go back to that 'Adapters at either end of a MIDI cable':


Then we can now represent what is actually happening much more accurately:


So there are twisted pairs (screened, but I haven't over-complicated the diagram with them) inside the two adapters, plus the same screened twisted pair inside the MIDI cable. As the diagram says, Novation don't use the MMA recommended mapping of TRS-to-MIDI pins, but in this case, because the two adapters are identical, the MIDI cable effectively 'disappears' and the end result is the same as in a purpose made cable:


And, yes, this is not quite 'Quick and Easy', but hopefully you are now better informed about MIDI cables...

Final thoughts - ongoing investigation, plus 2.5mm?

I'm now curious about the cables that are found in the TRS-MIDI adapters that you get with TRS-equipped devices. I'm wondering if they use screened/shielded twisted pair cable (as you would use with a microphone), or if they use the 'stereo' twin screened cable that is normally used with TRS 3.5 mm stereo. This seems like the sort of specification that could easily be misinterpreted, or one where assumptions could be made... So I'm going to do some investigations, and will report back here...

One final concern that I have is in the MMA Recommended Practice #54 where is says that the recommended connector for MIDI other than the 5-pin DIN socket is a 2.5mm TRS 'stereo' jack plug/socket. Given that 3.5mm 'mono' TRS jacks are used widely for patching n Eurorack modulars, as well as the 'stereo' versions in headphones and earphones, then a different connector makes sense. But the 2.5mm TRS jack plug is not the most robust of connectors, and if you compare and contrast it with a 5-pin DIN, then I know which connector I would prefer to be using when making music on stage, in the studio and on tour. The 3.5mm TRS jack is much more robust, imho, and I can see why equipment designers/engineers use it in their designs. I can also understand why they don't use the 2.5mm TRS jack...


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